Lisbon is one of the world's most beguiling cities: as far west as Europe gets, and built on hills best negotiated by rattling trams, or any of a clutch of funicular railways. In the ancient Alfama district, below the imposing Castelo de São Jorge, expect the waft of sardines cooked on braziers during the day and the wistful strains of fado, the Portuguese blues, seeping out of doorways at night. Chiado is the smart, central place to stay, close to both the hedonistic Bairro Alto and the stately squares and chic restaurants towards the river.

Just west of the city, the beaches, boutiques and fish restaurants of Cascais make a great day out, as do the exuberant quintas and hilltop castles of Sintra; a little closer to the city, Belém offers world-class museums and galleries, as well as that quintessential Lisbon snack, the pastel de nata, unquestionably the world's finest custard tart.

Where to Drink

Grapes & Bites (grapesandbites.pt/), R. do Norte 85, open 12-12 every day.

A cracking place, not least for their extraordinary selection of more than 600 Portuguese wines, many available by the glass. They also serve great charcuterie and cheese: a must-try is azeitão, made using cardoon instead of rennet, and one the world's finest cheeses. Live music in the evening.

By The Wine R. Das Flores 41-43, 6pm to midnight every day.

Barrel-vaulted wine bar and restaurant serving all of Portuguese wine giant Sogrape's 80 or so wines: there is plenty to choose from for 40€ and below, or you can splash out on a bottle of the legendary Barca Velha (900€ for the 2015). Snacks include terrific octopus, ceviches, sardines, acorn-fed ham and cheeses, and steaks are a speciality.

Madame Bacchus, R. de São Mamede 30G, open 5pm to 11.30 pm Tuesday to Saturday

On the western edge of Alfama, a bar à vins: literally, since the couple who own it, Gilles and Amandine, are from Paris. The wine list features 90 or so excellent wines from small producers all over Portugal, and the tapas-style menu has a distinctly Gallic twist: try the sardine rillettes.

A Brasileira, R. Garrett 122, open 8am to midnight every day

An historic, high-ceilinged and ornately decorated café in the heart of Chiado, the perfect place for um bica (a small coffee) and a pastel de nata. Outside, on the mosaic terrace, is a bronze statue (Lisbon's most photographed) of Fernando Pessoa, Lisbon's pre-eminent man of letters and an habitué of A Brasileira; next door to the café is Casa Havaneza, the best place in Lisbon to buy cigars.

Where to Eat

Belcanto, R. Serpa Pinto 10A, open 12.30-3 and 5-12, Tuesday to Saturday

Star chef José Avillez's two-Michelin-starred restaurant in Chiado offers both à la carte and tasting menus: his dishes fuse modern techniques with the finest Portuguese produce, while sommelier Nádia Desidério has 350 wines on her list, 80% of them Portuguese.

Alma, https://www.almalisboa.pt/pt/cozinha, R. Anchieta 15

Lisbon's other Michelin two-star is the fiefdom of Henrique Sá Pessoa: his menus combine faultless technique with painterly presentation and intense flavours, with seafood - as in his "Coast to Coast" menu - a speciality. The wine list has many Portuguese treasures, and more than 40 are available by the glass.

Taberna da Rua das Flores, R. das Flores 103, open 12-3.30 and 6- 11.30, closed Sundays.

Small, atmospheric, old-style taberna with a few modern twists on an otherwise classic menu, busy in the evenings, and no bookings: you can put your name down and go for a drink somewhere if there's a queue. Cash only.

Where to Stay

Where to stay:

The Lumiares, R. do Diário de Notícias 142

A 5* boutique hotel, housed in a refurbished 18th century palace on the edge of the Bairro Alto, with stunning, panoramic views from its rooftop bar and restaurant, and from its penthouse suites. Décor is bright and modern: there is also a spa and a gym, and it is next door to the recently renovated Solar do Vinho do Porto, a cathedral for port lovers.

The Vintage, R. Rodrigo da Fonseca 2

The sister hotel to The Lumiares, The Vintage is located just north of Bairro Alto in Principe Real, near the designer boutiques of Avenida da Liberdade. The hotel oozes mid-century glamour: each room even has a vintage bar cart, ready loaded with a Portuguese gin and tonic kit. Fix yourself a drink and take in the views from the rooftop bar.

Alma Lusa, Praça do Município 21

Set in the neoclassical splendour of the Praça do Municipio, just south of Chiado and a short walk from the Tagus, the Alma Lusa boasts not just 28 rather lovely rooms and suites but a terrific restaurant, too: Delfina, which offers traditional but elegant Portuguese cuisine and a varied and great-value wine list.