I recently had the delight of hosting a very special whisky evening at Boisdale Canary Wharf, held in conjunction with The Spectator. Our select group included Ranald Macdonald and Jonathan Ray, The Spectator’s wine columnist.

The whiskies were all from Duncan Taylor Scotch Whiskies, an independent bottler based in Huntly, Aberdeenshire. Since the mid-1930s, they have amassed an impressive inventory of rare casks and exceptional whiskies, all held at their own bonded warehouse on the periphery of Speyside.

My aim for the evening was to “impress with the liquid” and (after much deliberation with Duncan Taylor’s UK sales director, Andrew Sinat) we had before us an incredible array of drams totalling more than £150k... in just six bottles.

So how exactly does one decide on a running order for such exceptional whiskies?

I chose flavour and character over distillery, region or age, starting with a single-cask Bruichladdich from 1991. Islay whiskies typically have coal tar soap and smoke billowing from the glass, but this particular bottle was unpeated and – as it was only from an American oak cask – had an incredibly sweet and salty nose. A true coastal whisky, which started the evening as I wanted it to: with surprise, delight and plenty of questions.

Next up, a (long!) hop to Orkney and a Highland Park from 2004. Initially matured in an American oak cask, it showed wonderfully warm vanilla and salted caramel notes, with a hint of Orkney smoke (much more delicate that its Islay cousins). A nine-month finish in a small European oak cask, known as an octave, wrapped the entire character in rich toffee and Christmas spice. Duncan Taylor is renowned for the octave process: they began using it in the early 2000s and it is now responsible for the majority of their portfolio’s brands.

Now to the mainland; again, I was hoping to throw a curveball with the next offering: a 1987 Dumbarton 35-year-old single octave. This distillery no longer exists: when it did, most of its production was used to help create Ballantine’s blended Scotch. So it is not only rare to see as a whisky in its own right, but even rarer to sample it with such age. A buttery, warm, cocoa and popcorn delight which surprised many around the table.

From the banks of the Clyde to the banks of the Spey, and once again opened a long-gone distillery:  Caperdonich. The distillery was built across the road from Glen Grant and was called Glen Grant No 2 until the 1960s when it took on the name it kept until its closure in 2002. A single malt of exceptional style and grace, this 50yr old from 1969 was from a single cask of American oak only which allowed the whisky to develop its soft pulpy orchard fruit note, sweet vanilla, hints of coffee and light backing spices. It really was the stand-out glass of the evening. Boisdale had paired this with a vanilla cheesecake and the combination could not have been more perfect.

With only two whiskies left in the evening, it was time to bring in some heavy-hitters and there are none greater when it comes to flavour punch than Laphroaig. Renowned for its bold, heavily seated aroma and powerful palate I could see as it was introduced a few faces being pulled indicating what I already knew would be the case - not all whisky drinkers are lovers of peat. With this known, the Laphroaig Decided to introduce was 28yrs old and a single cask which, with its age allowed the flavours to integrate, dissipate in some cases and become an intriguing and far more approachable style of Laphroaig - a gateway peated dram perhaps.

Before I reveal the final whisky I think it’s worth saying here that although this event was aimed at the whisky lover, there was more than one guest at the event who were beginning their whisky journey and had come along to learn more and perhaps  develop a love for the water of life. I have to say that the only issue they may have after this tasting is that it may be difficult to continue the exploration when the bar has been set so very high with the line-up of the evening.

Finally, a Macallan. Possibly the world’s best known single malt brand and as such, there were no surprises here. The 1991 31yr old Octave single cask I’d selected was exactly what you should expect from such a distillery. Big, bold, rich and intriguing on the nose with cedar, raisins, red apple and cinnamon spice. The palate followed suit with a rounded, integrated character some said reminded them of Black Forest gâteau or Christmas cake. The bite sized morsel of rich dark chocolate brownie alongside was this luxurious drams perfect partner.

As the evening drew to a close, glasses drained but conversations still lively, it struck me how whisky has this rare ability to connect people — whether long-time aficionados or curious newcomers. That night at Boisdale wasn’t just about rare drams; it was about shared discovery, good company, and the joy that comes from exploring flavour together. A true celebration of the spirit in every sense.