Let’s bypass the supermarkets
Friday, September 25th, 2009
Ranald Macdonald- Boisdale Founder
I’ve always been interested in food. I always cooked at home and hung around my mother in the kitchen as a child.
When I used to go sailing, I always dealt with everything to do with food and snacks. I ended up paying for myself to go through university by working in a restaurant, first washing up and then in a kitchen. I never thought that I was going to have a career there, but then I got into the wine business and from there into a restaurant.
My first restaurant was Boisdale, which I opened in 1988. We’re a Scottish restaurant and source many of our ingredients from Scotland, where possible, and particularly from the West Highlands and Islands. Boisdale itself is a port on the southern tip of the island of South Uist in the Outer Hebrides, and we get a lot of our langoustine, crab, scallops, lobster, mushrooms and salmon from the island.
Sourcing food in this way is something we’ve been doing for 20-odd years. We used to buy our beef from Highland farms before we started getting through too much for them, so we now buy our beef from Aberdeenshire, all properly dry-aged. Everybody’s making quite a big thing about beef at the moment, but we’ve always done it the right way. We’re pretty eclectic, but most of what we do is cooking good ingredients fairly simply. We don’t do anything extraordinary, but I don’t think anything’s sacred – it’s fun to do different things. As it happens, this focus on sourcing, provenance and seasonality is currently very fashionable.
Personally, I think the greatest enemies of food are also the greatest purveyors of food and the people who brought food to a much wider market: the supermarkets. The supermarkets provide this magnificent opportunity for people to try a different product, but at the same time, they end up controlling what we eat. More importantly, they also control the price at which farmers are able to make a living or not make a living.
I think the problem of the supermarket is a fascinating element in how we buy and consume food today. For example, 15 per cent of the money spent on the high street is spent at Tesco. The supermarkets buy ruthlessly and they squeeze profit margins all the time.
On the other hand, there is an increasing opportunity for the public to bypass the supermarkets by buying direct from producers. While some of them are more real than others, the farmers’ markets and farmers’ shops are giving a great opportunity to buy more direct and cut out the middleman or the supermarket.
If you’re online, you can have everything delivered in the post. There’s no harm in it, either. Despite what some people would have you believe, human beings did exist before refrigeration, and there’s no danger to health from sending food out in this way. Hopefully it won’t be attacked by anyone, be it the big supermarkets or some government department, trying to make it illegal.
(That kind of interference wouldn’t surprise me, though. I do think there are too many rules and regulations about everything. For me, the public sector thinks very differently from the private sector. These rules and regulations help to keep them people in the public sector employed.)
I think maybe the greatest opportunity is connecting the actual producers direct with the public, which could open up to fascinating possibilities in terms of variety and price. For example, if we could relax some of our onerous abattoir laws that would enable farmers to go really ‘boutique’.
Another area where there is room for innovation is in frozen produce. Consumers haven’t fully understood that if products are frozen very well and then defrosted correctly, like fish in water in the fridge, you have a very good product. I doubt many farm shops in England have the ability to blast-freeze, but it is a process that hardly alters the food. It could open up another range of products that farm shops could sell directly to the public.
I think inevitably as people get more education, they will cook more at home and consume less processed food. People say that they don’t have time, but there’s only so much you can do in your leisure time. Instead of worrying about convenience, we should see that cooking is a pleasure, it tastes better and it’s cheaper. Cooking a meal from scratch really doesn’t take a lot of time. When I walk into my kitchen, the first thing I do is put on a pan of water and in the time it takes to boil, I take out and prepare the ingredients. I can easily cook for 4-6 people in no time – and very cheaply. I think people will, in time, learn how much fun cooking is. A good meal shouldn’t cost more than £2 a head and it’s very easy to create good food for less than £2.
In general, I think we’re paying far too much for our food. I can see how much I pay for ingredients and what the public is paying and the mark-ups charged by the supermarkets are huge. That’s not a problem that can be solved easily, but maybe consumers going direct to producers is part of the answer.
